As I promised a long time ago, I am providing some information about
Providence for the benefit of Hockey-L'ers who will be attending the
NC$$ Final Four. The restaurants/bars/cafes that I am recommending
are personal favorites. There are many establishments others may find
as good or better that simply didn't make my admittedly biased list.
Visitors may want to buy a copy of Rhode Island Monthly or pick up
a (free) copy of the Providence Phoenix upon their arrival in Providence
for additional recommendations and suggestions about things to do in
the Providence area.
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THE CITY
Providence is a city of about 200,000. It is the core of a metro-
politan area of about 800,000. The downtown area has experienced a
renaissance in the last decade, with the construction of several new
buildings (including the new Convention Center and the Westin Hotel)
and a new park (Waterplace, which is adjacent to the Convention
Center complex), the opening of new roads, and the relocation of the
old train station at the foot of the State Capitol (Smith Hill). The
renovation project is still going on, and the construction of a
controversial upscale shopping mall near the Convention Center is
still being debated.
Roger Williams, exiled from Massachusetts for civil and religious
non-conformity, is credited with the founding of the city (originally
called Providence Plantations) in 1636. Unlike neighboring
Massachusetts, religious freedom and separation of Church and State
were fundamental features of the Providence colony from the very
beginning.
The charter of 1644 established a relationship with the British
crown. The charter included the Newport settlement on Aquidneck
Island, known as Rhode Island, as part of the colony. The official
name of the state is still "State of Rhode Island and Providence
Plantations."
Although the original settlers were primarily planters, in the
second half of the 17th century the core of economic activity began
to shift in the direction of simple industries and particularly
sea trade, which would experience a boom in the years immediately
following the American Revolution. In the 19th century Providence
became a major textile and jewelry manufacturing center, as waves
of immigrants settled in the city in search of economic opportunity.
To this day Providence is still an ethnically diverse city. The
original Irish, Italian and Portuguese immigrants have been followed
more recently by Latin Americans and Southeast Asians.
Nowadays Providence is a commercial and cultural center. It is the
home of five institutions of higher learning: Brown University, the
Rhode Island School of Design, Rhode Island College, Providence
College (the host of the NC$$ tournament), and Johnson and Wales
University. There's also a small branch of the University of Rhode
Island, whose main campus is in Kingston.
Thanks to the efforts of the Providence Preservation Society and
a number of individuals, a good balance has been achieved between
development and historical preservation. The College Hill Historic
District, around Brown University and the Rhode Island School of
Design, is testimony to the concern to preserve the city's rich
architectural heritage.
Those of you who will be attending the NC$$ Final Four will
probably spend most of your time downtown, where the Civic Center
and the tournament hotels are located, and in the East Side, the
beautiful neighborhood overlooking the center of the city, where
Brown University is located.
To get to the East Side from downtown, walk or drive up Waterman
Street (past the Rhode Island School of Design) or College Street (at
the top of College Street are the Van Wickle Gates, the main entrance
onto the Brown campus). If you don't feel like walking or driving, go
to Kennedy Plaza (the big square in the heart of downtown Providence) and
board any bus marked "Tunnel" (e.g. "Rumford/Tunnel" or "Hope/Tunnel").
Tell the driver you are only going up the hill, and pay $0.25. The
tunnel in question connects downtown to Thayer Street (which crosses
the Brown campus), and is used exclusively by RIPTA busses. Get off
at the first stop after the bus leaves the tunnel (otherwise you'll
have to pay the full fare). To get back downtown for $0.25, board any
bus in front of Spat's on Thayer Street.
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DIRECTIONS TO THE CIVIC CENTER
From the South and the East (via 195 West), take Route 95 North to Exit
22. Bear right, following the sign to "Downtown Providence." At the
end of the exit, turn right at the traffic light. Take another
right at the next traffic light. Follow the arrow to "Sabin Street." The
Civic Center will be on your right, just past the Convention Center.
From the North, take Route 95 South to Exit 22. Bear left, following
the sign to "Downtown Providence." At the end of the exit, turn right
at the traffic light. Take another right at the next traffic light.
Follow the arrow to "Sabin Street." The Civic Center will be on your
right, just past the Convention Center.
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RESTAURANT/ CAFE/ BAR SUGGESTIONS
Providence offers a surprisingly large selection of excellent
restaurants in every price range. Immigration has certainly contributed
to the variety of cuisines represented by local restaurants.
++++++++++
1. DOWNTOWN PROVIDENCE
Capital Grille (1 Cookson Place)
Located in the old Union station, practically next door to the Westin,
this is an upscale steak/seafood restaurant, popular with businessmen.
Pot au Feu (44 Custom House Street)
The salon upstairs is a bit too "elegant" for my taste. I prefer the
downstairs bistro, which offers great French country cuisine.
Union Street Brewery (36 Exchange Terrace)
Next door to the Capital Grille, in the old train station, and popular
with downtown yuppies, the Union Street Brewery features a great
selection of hand-crafted ales, in addition to good light fare (pizzas,
burgers, salads, etc). Prices are reasonable, the atmosphere is very
pleasant.
Murphy's (55 Union Street)
One of my favorites. Great place to have a beer and a pastrami
sandwich. It is located on Union Street, between Fountain and
Washington Streets, very close to the Civic Center.
Finnegan's Wake (397 Westminster Street)
Good pub, decent burgers, casual atmosphere, low prices.
There are a lot of bars and inexpensive restaurants near the Civic
Center. If you're a Rex Sox fan, you may want to check out
"Roger Clemens' Flame Roasted Chicken" on Fountain Street. I'm a
recovering Red Sox fan, so I've stayed away from this place.
++++++++++
2. FEDERAL HILL
Federal Hill is the Italian section of Providence. It is located very
close to downtown Providence. When you exit the Civic Center, turn right,
go past the Holiday Inn, and straight ahead across the Route 95 overpass.
You'll be facing Atwells Avenue, which is the heart of Federal Hill.
(Actually, the Holiday Inn next door to the Civic Center is officially
on Atwells Avenue.) The best restaurants on Federal Hill serve
Northern Italian food. Atwells Avenue is also an interesting place
for a walk on a sunny afternoon. Go into some of the stores. Most of
them are cater largely to an Italian-American clientele. (With a name
like Valente, I should know...)
On the right-hand side of Atwells Avenue (as you walk or drive up
from downtown):
Angelo's Civita Farnese
A Providence institution. Go there if you are interested in a tasty
and inexpensive meal, not if you are looking for superior service and
atmosphere. You will probably have to wait in line, particularly at lunch
time, but it's worth it. You can't beat the prices, and the food is
very good.
Cassarino's
One of my favorite restaurants on Federal Hill. The food is very
good, the service is excellent, and the prices are moderate. Try to
get a table on the second floor, near the big window overlooking
Atwells Avenue.
Trattoria d'Antuono
Located a couple of blocks down from Cassarino's, this place offers
very good food at moderate prices. The decor is unpretentious and the
noise level is, at times, a bit high, but remember that this is a
"trattoria," not a "ristorante."
On the left-hand side of Atwells Avenue:
Camille's Roman Garden
Camille's is actually located off Atwells Avenue, on Bradford Street,
but you can't miss it. Excellent food (particularly the veal), kitsch
decor. You may think you've walked into the set of The Godfather.
Not cheap.
Old Canteen
Next door to Camille's, it's the first restaurant you will see on
the left-hand side of Atwells Avenue. Expensive.
Grotta Azurra
One of the best restaurants in the state. Excellent food and service,
valet parking. Expensive.
Thailand
Obviously this is not an Italian restaurant. The food is tasty, the
service is friendly, the prices are friendlier.
For excellent desserts (including "gelato") and coffees, try Cafe La
Dolce Vita, located in a small square on the right-hand side of Atwells
Avenue, about a long block past Cassarino's and before you get to
Trattoria d'Antuono. They also serve sandwiches, and have a full bar.
Very strong recommendation.
By all means, stay away from a restaurant named The Arch. It used to be
called Galeria di Gera. The change in name didn't improve the quality
of the food. I tried it again last October, and was again disappointed.
++++++++++
3. WATERFRONT/WICKENDEN STREET/SOUTH MAIN STREET AREA
Al Forno (577 South Main Street)
Prizewinning restaurant, considered one of the best in New England.
Be prepared to spend good money for a memorable meal. The owners were
named the best chefs in the northeast in 1993 by James Beard.
Directions (as promised to Geoff Howell): Take Route 195 East, get
off at exit 2. At the bottom of the exit go straight ahead, through
the traffic lights. Bear right -- what else? :-) -- at the Republican
Party Headquarters (that is, don't go back on Route 195). Al Forno
is the non-descript building on the right-hand side, past the
Corliss Landing condominums. Go to the end of the street, turn
right, drive around the block, and park in the large parking lot.
The front entrance of Al Forno faces the parking lot.
Alternatively, and perhaps more easily, take the new Memorial
Boulevard behind the old train station and follow the signs to Route 195
East. Eventually you'll find yourself on South Water Street, with the
river on your right. (It's technically Route 44, and you may still see a
sign or two indicating that.) Follow South Water Street to the very end,
and bear left (that is, don't go on Route 195). You'll now be merging
with exit 2 from Route 195 East. At this point follow the directions
above.
Cactus Grille (566 South Main Street)
Excellent Mexican restaurant, across the street from Al Forno's back
entrance. Many different kinds of beer, big margaritas, casual, friendly
atmosphere, good prices.
Pakarang (303 South Main Street)
The best Thai restaurant in the state, Pakarang is still a well-kept
secret. The menu is extensive, the service is courteous, the decor is
pleasant.
Barnsider (375 South Main Street)
Excellent steak/seafood restaurant, with a great salad bar. Not far
from Pakarang. The entrance is actually from a parking lot on South
Water Street.
L'Elizabeth (285 South Main Street)
This is the epitome of the "classy" cafe/bar. Great place for a
post-dinner drink and dessert. The Irish coffee is particularly good.
Plesantly quiet.
Taste of India (221 Wickenden Street)
Good tandoor cooking, spicy food, moderate prices.
Kismet (230 Wickenden Street)
Across the street from Taste of India. Similar menu. "Connaisseurs"
of Indian food argue about which is the better restaurant. I can't
tell the difference.
Coffee Exchange (207 Wickenden Street)
Good place for coffee and dessert. Popular with the artsy crowd.
Extra-Sensory (388 Wickenden Street)
Great sandwiches, excellent light meals for vegetarians and non-
vegetarians alike. It is part of a health food store. My vegetarian
friends insist that Extra-Sensory's vegetarian fare is first-rate.
I consider this an oxymoron, but since they're otherwise intelligent
people, I respect their assessment. :-) Good place for either lunch or
dinner.
Wickenden Pub (320 Wickenden Street)
Large selection of beers, this is one of my favorite bars in the East
Side.
The area is full of small restaurants, cafes, and pizzarias. (Both
Fellini's and Pizza Pier are recommended.) There are also several
bars in the area. Some people swear by Babe's, on Wickenden Street,
which was featured in the cult movie "A Matter of Degrees." Others
prefer the Hot Club, near Al Forno. Underage Brown students have been
known to patronize Cafe at Brooke's, at the corner of Wickenden and
Brook Streets. (The place is also a pretty good restaurant.) And then
there's Shooters, a sprawling and somewhat tacky nightclub/bar/
restaurant/marina complex at 25 India Street, near India Point Park
and the Days Inn Hotel. (I prefer this place in the late afternoon or
early evening, particularly if there's a nice sunset.)
++++++++++
4. COLLEGE HILL (NEAR THE BROWN UNIVERSITY CAMPUS)
Adesso (161 Cushing Street)
California grilling, pastas, exotic pizzas, pleasant atmosphere.
Moderate prices.
Siam Garden (182 Angell Street)
Good Thai food at reasonable prices. Nice decor. There's a branch of
this restaurant, named Siam Square, at 289 Thayer St. Prices are a
bit lower at Siam Square.
Andrea's (268 Thayer Street)
Good Greek food, moderate prices. Get a table by the window and
watch people stroll by. Or sit at the well-stocked bar.
Rue de l'Espoir (99 Hope Street)
Adventurous menu, excellent bread, courteous service, moderate
prices. Great place for Sunday brunch.
Meeting Street Cafe (220 Meeting Sreet)
Excellent place for light meals. Great sandwiches and more than 20
different desserts. I used to have lunch there at least once a week,
and still go there whenever I can. Inexpensive.
New Rivers (7 Steeple Street)
Located across the street from the historic First Baptist Church
near the Rhode Island School of Design, this is an intimate bistro,
with a good, inventive menu.
Blue Point (99 North Main Street)
Generally considered the best seafood restaurant in Providence.
Located between downtown and the Rhode Island School of Design.
Cafe Paragon (Corner of Angell and Thayer Streets)
Good coffees, light meals, and desserts. Full bar, with an interesting
selection of imported beers.
Montana (272 Thayer Street)
One of my favorite hangouts, although some of my friends don't
understand why. Good burgers and potato skins, full bar, friendly
service, not terribly loud.
Oliver's (corner of Brook and Benevolent Streets)
Popular with Brown students. You may run into Hockey-L'er and
Brown hockey fan Mike Sheridan (who will be rooting for Michigan) and
a few members of the Brown hockey team. Karaoke on Thursdays. Fussball,
darts, pool tables on the second floor. Friendly, casual, and loud.
If you're an ice cream lover, Providence is the place for you. Try
Big Alice's (100 Hope Street, across from the Rue de l'Espoir), an
independent (that is, not part of a chain) store that has been
featured in several publications. Partaking of the ice cream at
at Big Alice's is an unofficial requirement for graduation from
from Brown. Of maybe you will want to try a "cabinet," a.k.a milkshake.
There are many other restaurants, fast food places, bars, and cafes
(Peaberry's, next door to the Avon Cinema, is also recommended). Explore
the area.
++++++++++
5. PROVIDENCE VICINITY
Southeastern Massachusetts has a large population of Portuguese
descent. Not surprisingly, the area features many fine Portuguese
restaurants. Portuguese cuisine is hearty (seafood, including cod
and shellfish, pork, beef, potatoes) and very tasty.If you go to a
Portuguese restaurant, have either Portuguese red wine or Portuguese
"green" wine ("vinho verde"), which is served chilled. The three
places listed below are recommended. Prices are very reasonable.
Estrela do Mar (736 North Broadway, East Providence)
Madeira (288 Warren Avenue, East Providence)
Solmar (497 Warren Avenue, East Providence)
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THE COLLEGE HILL HISTORIC DISTRICT
This section of Providence is within walking distance from downtown,
up the hill, in the East Side of Providence. The most interesting
sections are Benefit Street, between Sheldon and Olney Streets, and
Brown University and the surrounding area, on the crest of the hill.
Feel free to have a picnic lunch on the lawn of the John Brown House,
on Benefit Street, between Power and Charlesfield Streets. You may
may also want to visit the Museum of the Rhode Island School of Design,
one of the best in New England, and arguably one of best small museums
in the country.
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BROWN UNIVERSITY
The seventh oldest university in the United States, Brown was
established in 1764. It is a mid-size university, with about 7,200
students (including the graduate and medical schools) and approximately
550 full-time, non-medical faculty (plus a large number of hospital-
based faculty).
Because buildings were constructed at different times over more than
two hundred years, the Brown University campus offers an interesting
sampling of American architectural trends. University Hall, Brown's
oldest building, now housing the main administrative offices of the
university, is a National Historic Landmark.
Stroll through the "Green" (the central part of the campus), stop by
the libraries and the new Center for Information Technology, visit
the fine athletic facilities (located on Hope Street, near the corner
of Lloyd Avenue). The campus merges with the surrounding neighborhood,
including the funky Thayer Street area. Stop by the Brown bookstore,
visit the record stores, maybe even shop at the new Gap. Unfortunately
Brown will be on spring break, so the atmosphere on campus and in the
Thayer Sreeet area will be somewhat atypical.
Anyone interested in an unofficial tour of Brown, feel free to contact
me by phone or in person. (I will be at the games and at the Hockey-L
dinner being organized by Ron Correia.) The Admissions Office (at the
corner of Prospect and Angell Streets) offers official tours, but my
unofficial tour is better. :-)
For more information on Brown University, check Brown's home page
on the World Wide Web. The URL is http://www.brown.edu.
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NEWPORT
If you have time, drive down to Newport. It takes about 45
minutes to get to "The City By the Sea" from Providence. Walk through
the city, and along Thames Street and the waterfront. (Lots of
places to eat and shop, including some great antique stores). Take a
leisurely stroll on Cliff Walk. See the mansions. Drive down Ocean Drive.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Have a great stay in Providence!
Luiz F. Valente
Tel. 831-7830 (home)
863-1830 (office at Brown)
Office address: Meiklejohn House, 159 George Street (between Thayer and
and Brook Streets)
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